Perfume & Scent

Capturing Endangered Flowers

"Headspace" perfumery as field chemistry

Headspace analysis lets perfumers capture and analyze volatile molecules around a flower or place, then reconstruct the scent using GC-MS.

GC-MS Volatile analysis Scent reconstruction

AI Perfumery

Learning odor space from molecular graphs

Graph neural networks, odor space embeddings, dimensionality reduction—predicting smell from molecules.

Deep Learning Mol-PECO Osmo

Jean Kerléo: The Perfume Archivist

The Osmothèque and preserving scents that vanished

The world's first perfume archive—storing and reconstructing thousands of fragrances from original formulas as regulations change molecules.

Osmothèque Reformulation Versailles

Roman Kaiser: The Scent Expeditioner

Capturing orchids without picking them

Pioneering headspace techniques—field science that captures volatile molecules around living flowers. Conservation or possession?

Headspace Field Chemistry Rare Scents

Luca Turin: Smell as Quantum Physics

A controversial theory that turns perfumery into frontier science

The vibration theory of olfaction—arguing receptors detect intramolecular vibrations. Chemistry meets physics meets cultural battle.

Vibration Theory Olfaction Controversy

Sissel Tolaas: Smell as Fashion's Missing Sense

Extracting atmosphere from historical garments

A chemist-artist recreating scents from fashion for museums—making smell legible through engineered systems.

Smell Archive Balenciaga The Met

Hotel Signature Scents

Olfactory neuroscience behind repeat business

Luxury hotels diffuse custom fragrances through HVAC to create olfactory memories that drive return visits.

Proust Effect Limbic System Scent Branding
Also: Mind & Brain

Bottling "Floating Gold" Without Whales

The chemistry and biotech of ambergris notes

Ambrein oxidizes into key odorants like ambroxide. Givaudan produces Ambrofix via biotechnology. Making whale-derived molecules without whales.

Biosynthesis Metabolic engineering Terpene chemistry

Truffles: Luxury Priced by Volatile Chemistry

Chemical ecology meets analytical chemistry

Truffle value is largely aroma value: a complex VOC mixture including sulfur compounds. Evolutionary biology meets analytical chemistry.

VOC profiles Sulfur compounds Chemical ecology

Hervé This: Note-by-Note Cuisine

A chemist arguing with "natural"

Building dishes from pure compounds rather than traditional ingredients—molecular gastronomy's philosophical provocateur.

Molecular Gastronomy Pierre Gagnaire INRAE